I used a radial arm saw to cut up the MDF board, as usual I try to make an extra piece for each side for incase I went out of the tolerance specification. The image on the left indicates the top piece of the prototype that has been sanded down and cut by using a router table and the correct router bits (radius of 10mm and 15mm). The channel of the bottom piece of the prototype was also cut by using the table router with a bit size of radius 10mm.
The images above shows how I completed the inside radius curve of 20mm. First I made a combination of Polyester filler and hardener, filled the curve up and dragged the perspex washer through the prototype the curve. Since I didn't have a plain washer, I made one out of perspex. I used a screw and bolt which was put into a cordless drill and smoothed it out on to sand paper for the perfect, smooth finish of the curve. After the polyester filler has hardened, I filled the small holes with a normal wood filler and dragged the washer through for a last time.
the dowel was made out of a cut off of Tamboti Wood that was put onto a lathe and tooled down to a diameter of 10mm. The shavings was used a polisher, since Tamboti Wood is filled with it's own oil. I used Tamboti Wood because it can handle climate change and gives a beautiful finish to the final prototype.
